This is probably the closest I’ll ever get to wearing a national Norwegian costume. But at least I can boast of the creation being «Home spray painted in Norway».
This is a short usability review of PolarPro filters for the DJI Mavic Pro drone. The review will not touch image quality, only usability.
PolarPro are usually the filters to get with regards to image quality. Don’t bother with cheap, Chinese eBay filters. The colours are likely to be horrific.
While the PolarPro filters are usually high quality products, from a usability standpoint they should hire some competence.
First, the case. The Mavic Pro is all about portability. Downsizing, smallness. As such, so is also the PolarPro filters by necessity. But the case is huge in comparison. PolarPro has been lazy and are using the same filter cases as for Phantom filters. This is a big miss.
Second, the distinguisability. With both the 3-packs or the 6-packs of filters, the aluminium frame of the filters are the same colour. You can’t distinguish one filter from the other, not even in daylight. And remember, these filters are small. There is print on the side of the frame. Again a miss, as the type is small and the font is bold, italic and just really difficult to decipher.
You’ll need to remedy this, e.g. by writing the designation with a high visibility felt pen on the case. Or colour code the filters themselves by different colour felt markers.
However, the best solution is for PolarPro to rethink the usability of their products.
Today a package with new audio gear arrived.
The package contained two Røde microphones, both intended for use with smartphones. One lavalier (the SmartLav+) and one directional (the VideoMic Me).
And not least the Zoom H6 Handy Recorder, which basically is as portable as an XLR mixer can get.
I also have a full gear list, to which these additions are now added.
I have bought an old Mercedes-Benz Sprinter van. The plan is to use it as a combined adventure van and mobile office, so that I can film and photograph the whole of Norway, and maybe even other countries.
I will not make too many modifications, but installing a diesel heater is a must. This is Northern Norway.
I made a road movie from when I purchased the van:
One year ago Getty Images, the world’s leading stock media agency, invited me to become one of their contributors. Now the first footage sequence is online with them.
I’ve finally uploaded and got accepted a footage clip with Getty. First out was 15 seconds of burning rubber, from the last ever drag race organized at my local airport.
Please note that all images and footage delivered to Getty is licensed exclusively through them. I cannot even sell this material via my own website.
This is a link to my portfolio page at Getty Images: http://www.gettyimages.no
This is a list of the cameras I have owned. Newest on top.
Canon EOS 80D
The 80D is a great stills camera for its price. A swivel screen should be mandatory for all cameras. If only the 80D had full sensor 4K video, it would be a great camera and I would buy another.
DJI Mavic Air (drone)
Lighter, smaller and newer than the Mavic Pro. Not necessarily a better choice. It still is DJI software.
DJI Mavic Pro (sold)
Crap still images, so I always used the Phantom 4 Pro instead, despite the P4’s bulk and weight.
DJI Phantom 4 Pro
Great drone, terrible software.
Panasonic Lumix DMC-FZ2000
Nice camera, but with some shortcomings. Useless autofocus for video and noisy shadows.
DJI Phantom 3 (drone)
I first bought the Standard, drowned it, then bought and totally crashed a 4K, then bought another 4K that lost contact over the ocean and never returned home. Bought yet another 4K that is still alive, but the unstable compass on this one makes it rather useless. Really great photography tool. Not the best camera, but good enough for most needs, and the ability to shoot both stills and video from almost any vantage point is a amazing. DJI deliver impressive hardware, buggy nag-/software and abysmal support.
Panasonic Lumix DMC-FZ1000
Despite its many shortcomings, the FZ1000 has so far been my favourite camera. As it is so versatile as a complete package, it also means that it gets used a lot.
Canon PowerShot G7 X
I never really started vlogging, so this was sold after very little use. Fair image quality. Too large (heavy) to be pocketable. Lacked mic input. I usually just grabbed the FZ1000 anyways, so the G7 X just came short.
Blackmagic Pocket Cinema Camera
Weird camera with raw video files. Too cumbersome to actually use, so I sold it hardly having used it at all.
GoPro Hero 4 Silver
A camera that has seen very little use. It is too much of a specialty item. POV videos are boring.
Canon PowerShot S110
A favorite. Fairly good image quality (noticeably better than a smartphone), zoom, and a pocketable size. Great for travel and outdoors. Its biggest flaw was the fixed screen.
Canon PowerShot SX50 HS
A superzoom at 24-1200. Great for hiking. Not the best image quality with its small sensor. Images at the long end mostly unusable. But it got me hooked on the versatility of the ‘all in one’ camera.
Canon Powershot G12
Great body/controls, but only 720p video. Heavy.
Canon EOS 5D Mark II
May be one of the game changing cameras in history, paving the way for video into the realm of photography. I bought this after selling the 7D.
Canon EOS 5D Mark III
I found the Mark III to be somewhat of a disappointment. It was only marginally better than the Mark II, at more than twice the price. I soon sold it, as I didn’t find it worth the investment.
Canon EOS 7D
Great camera, from when Canon was great. It was the best choice for an all round DSLR at the time, with far better autofocus and fps than the 5D Mark II. I should have kept this and not bought the 5D Mark III (only bought the 5D Mark II).
Canon EOS 450D
My first DSLR, and the camera that started my semi photography career. Soon got replaced by the 7D.
The G10 was a great G camera. High resolution, nice controls and swivel screen. Unfortunately also low resolution video.
Canon EOS 300D
Bought by employer. I did not know enough about photography at the time to make use of this camera.
Fujifilm Finepix 4700
Bought by employer. Cool look. OK outdoors, barely usable indoors.
Canon Ixus L1
Great pocket camera with APS film.
Kodak Disc 4000
My first camera. Compact, but not that great images as the negatives were so small.
I recently got an invitation to sell my work via Getty images. And I don’t know if I should.
The talent scouts of Getty images had seen some of my footage on the interwebs and found it ok enough to invite me to become part of that somewhat exclusive club of contributors. I must say I am a little honoured that a mini small time producer like me gets invited.
At the same time I know that Getty is a turbo capitalistic beast that pay some of the lowest royalty rates to photographers of all agencies. And they get away with it as their market dominance still allow some photographers to make ok moneys.
Another caveat with Getty is that the demand image/clip exclusivity. That means no sale via already established agency contacts and even no sales via my own site. That could mean monetary loss rather than gain.
The conclusion is that I’ll join and test some work, cautiously.
I need, but have not found, an adapter that converts from a RAM 1-inch ball to the Garmin nüvi ball. So I made it myself with available RAM parts.
I used one RAM-to-Garmin double ball snap-link long arm (RAP-SBA-RGLU) and one RAM-HC1-BALL-BU.
I cut the snap-link ball off the the long arm, and cut the 1-inch ball off its base. Next I drilled an 8mm hole in the one inch ball where I had made the cut. I should have used a 7.5mm drill bit, as that would have made a tighter fit. Be advised.
Then superglue and attach. I also have the option to strengthen the joint with a screw, but I don’t think it will be necessary for holding a GPS.
Most 1-inch balls (preferably without any metal) can be used, but the RAM-HC1-BALL-BU has a pre-drilled hole that can be used for a screw to aid the fastening power of the glue.
After use, the long arm seems a little week, as the GPS is quite jittering on uneven roads. In effect, I will be making a version with a shorter arm.
NOTE: Similar ready made adapters can now be purchased online, so there is no longer need for DIY solutions such as this.
Next: “The potency of the adapter balls” imagery:
How does the studio strobe, the speedlight and the hybrid compare with regards to power?
Despite an ok collection of flashes (3x 600ws studio strobes, 2x 580EX II, 2x YN560, 1x YN565 plus some more), I got a little panicked when a job requiring 4 studio strobes came to me. A photographer friend loaned me a strobe for the job, but I also ordered the latest and newest in the world of flash: the Godox Witstro AD360.
In short, the Witstro flashes are a hybrid between a speedlight and a studio strobe.
There are currently two models Witstro available, the AD180 and the AD360. They both have much of the power of the studio strobes at the same time as they are a lot more portable. They compromise by being bigger and heavier than a speedlight, they do not have TTL (yet) and needs a separate power pack to operate. They also lack the model light that a studio strobe has.
I wanted to know how the flashes compared to each other with regards to power output, so I set up a little test. All the flashes where fired with the same camera settings, the same distance, etc. Thus I got some data for a comparison.
The test revealed that the Canon Speedlite at full power equalled the Godox Witstro AD360 at 1/4 power and the Godox QT-600 at power setting 7.0 (1/8?).
This was kind of expected. The AD360 is 360 watt-seconds, the QT-600 is 600 Ws while the 580EX II is supposed to compare to 100 Ws.
The test also show that with an umbrella mount, the speedlight and the Witstro is less centered than the studio strobe.
What I had not expected was that the 580EX II is noticably warmer than the two Godoxes with regards to colour temperature. Unfortunately that means they cannot be used together without some gels to compensate.
Setup for the test:
• 60 cm diameter white shoot-through umbrella, full shaft extension
• Canon 5D mkIII
• Tamron 24-50 @ 35mm
• ISO 100
Godox FT-16 triggers where used for the Godox flashes, while the 580EX II where triggered by Phottix Odin.
Mid 2013 Facebook made news feeds useless for some. The main culprits are called “story bump” and “last actor”.
Facebook allows to main ways to sort your Facebook feed: Top stories and Most recent. I am a linear kind of guy, so I have always preferred most recent.
As of mid 2013 the most recent option is actually no longer an option as of the introduction of story bumping and last actor.
Story bumping makes assumptions on your behalf that some stories by some friends are more interesting than more recent stories if you have not already seen that story. Thus it messes with your news feed timeline.
Last actor prioritize by whom you’ve last interacted with, by such as likes or comments. Then these stories will be bumped.
End of story is that my news feed feels like nagware. I see the same stories time and time again, with no relation to where in the timeline I saw it last. And that is annoying.
Faceboook, please bring back a truly chronological order option, and stop making assumptions on my behalf.